It is Carnaval time in Salvador! To find out what events are taking place the city publishes a hard copy booklet and and online Calendario Cultural. "Cultural Calendar". The booklets can be found at Information Booths and in many restaurants, clubs and stores. Published each month they are little treasures of information. Worth finding! Online: http://www.agendacultural.ba.gov.br/
"Malasemasa" My samba teacher used this word to describe the husband of a friend. I couldn't figure it out. Sometimes Portuguese sounds like one long song. Perplexed, she explained that it meant a suitcase without handles. Duh...mala...sem...asa!
My bedside companions. Santo Antonio, Sao Jose Baptista, Aparecida,
Isabel, Cosme e Damian, Conceicao. Soon they will have homes of their
own. Construction under way!
To find your Santos go to the church by
Praca Piedade. Look for the rusty gate to enter a little side store packed
with religious artifacts and literature. Plan to spend some time
investigating the leaflets, Santos, rosaries and more. This is the
place for divine orientation.
I love this place. Relaxed, straightforward, people. The music and the dance spill onto the street. Cars and buses make room for the tables and laughter. Easy dancing, smooth floor, hips circle the floor and find a sway across the room. Plastic tables and chairs, cold beer, musicians in the corner. Purses piled high next to half eaten plates of feijaoda. Fica feliz....seu vontade...there is always next week. “And where is he?”
I am so proud of myself this week; I took a new bus to Comercio!
I was going to the Sophie Calle exhibit at Solar Uniao...(Museum of
Modern Art). What I didn't know is that the bus doesn't stop in front
of the museum but goes tearing down the hill to the bus stop at the
bottom of the Lacerda! Naturally I was running late and the sun was setting. I knew it was not a good idea to walk back up the hill
to the museum so I hailed a cab and was at the museum in 5 minutes.
After enjoying the exhibits, outdoor sculpture garden and view from the restaurant it was time to meet a friend who was waiting for me at the Lacerda (Cidade Alta) . I didn't want to spend the R$6
to go back down the hill. I sat at the entrance of the museum to give the situation some thought. I noticed that the museum employees were going in the same direction I wanted to go.
I watched. Some crossed the busy intersection and walked up the hill towards town. Others climbed on to motorcycles and sped off. And then there was one who seemed to disappear into the the crowded bus that waited at the intersection for a green light. Though no
"official" stop I saw that it was possible. I made my way to the
corner and in a few minutes a bus pulled up and was stopped at the
The door did not open for me. I looked at the
driver and passengers and did what all Brasilians do; I banged on the
back door. Nothing. I slapped the door again. Slowly, the doors
parted and I was on! Five minutes later I was at my stop and at the entryway to the Lacerda.
To get to Comercio from Barra, walk to the Barra Atletica bus stop on Rua Cesar Zama and catch the Fazendo Grande bus. The bus runs through Graca, Campo Grande, Comercio and continues on towards Fazendo Grande.
After a late afternoon nap on the beach in Amaralina I walked to Rio Vermelho for an Acai at 24hr Suco. Their acai is cold, firm and not too sweet. YUMM! The store also serves juices, sandwiches and vitaminas. Be sure to check out the large sculpture of Yemanja in the praca. Gorgeous!
From Barra, take any bus that goes along the water's edge towards Itapua. If not sure ask the driver: "Passa la no Rio Vermelho?"